If you decide to cross the cardamoms, equip yourself well, even during the dry season (there can still be showers). It's better to cross the mountains in two stages because the road can be difficult. We stopped halfway in the village of Moat Preah in a guesthouse. There are some portions of asphalt roads, but impossible to avoid the red track! There are not a lot of Westerners in Cardamome, so Cambodians are very curious and helpful. Even if there are not many people, it's still easy to find gasoline (bottled or at the station). The road becomes more complicated after the last "big" city, Phumi Prâmaôy. Work is in progress on the road, but you will ride mainly on gravel, track, and unfinished bridges! Watch out for falling rocks!