I guess when you hear the word Järvsö, you think of icy skiing, adrenaline-filled downhill mountain bike cycling, or a tough girl in a luxury package named Lill-Babs. Of course, you’re not wrong, but I want to challenge your worldview of the Järvsö parish. As around the Hälsingland province, there are really nice and winding roads, perfect for motorcycles.

From Järvsö, I take the road via Skästra to Färila, which takes me “between the villages” as the locals say, and then further to the sawmill past Färila. As I drive past, my helmet is filled with the scent of freshly cut wood, it smells fantastic. Here I turn left and cruise towards Los. Now I’m riding on really nice roads that take me through the beautiful landscape of Hälsingland. In Los, I connect to Fågelsjövägen for an almost illegal rush of motorcycle-related happiness. Even though it’s close to civilization (relatively speaking if you’re from a big city), it feels like I’m riding on a surprisingly well-paved road straight into the wilderness. 

Tens of kilometers of forest and small tarns on either side of the road. It’s just me, my rumbling motorcycle, an empty road, and the sunset on my face —an indescribable feeling of total vehicle-infused freedom. If I had to pick my favorite road in Hälsingland, it’s probably this one. Depending on how far you want to follow Fågelsjövägen straight into the relatively unknown, you’ll come to a place that on paper is perhaps less adrenaline-pumping. About 5 kilometers into the Republic of Jämtland lies Fågelsjö Gammelgård, offering fantastic homemade food and interesting stories, like the background story to the Swedish expression, “häcken full” (full to the brim with a hint of a persons behind), or the tale of the two houses.

Day 14 and my top three experiences in Sweden. After the somewhat remote village of Gäddede, Jämtland province, where the Wilderness Road heads north, something happens in the landscape. The nature and views suddenly become stunningly beautiful, and the landscape opens up. I shine up like the sun despite the cloudy and cold weather, which doesn’t seem to affect me anymore. I get to ride a motorcycle here in this almost unreal nature experience. I think over and over again that Sweden can’t get more beautiful than this. I roll into Jormvattnet, and apparently, it can get more beautiful. I highly recommend this part of Sweden if you’ve never experienced it. Along the road, I have the mirror-like lake on my left and the mountainside on my right. I envy all the houses located here with this magnificent view and the oversized porches to enjoy it all.

But they probably don’t have broadband out here, so it would never work. I stop at Jormvattnets fishing camp for a short break and something to eat. I handsomely park the bike at the end of the boating dock, is this Sweden’s most scenic coffee break perhaps? After a short photo session, I continue north but don’t get far before Mother Nature once again flexes her organic muscles in front of me, it’s almost dullening. The road leading into the village and lake with the same name, Stora Blåsjön, is an act signed by William Shakespeare himself it seems. The lake is bathed in beautiful light from the few rays of sun battling to break through the thick gray clouds above me, and I once again think, can Sweden get more beautiful than this?  

Passing the Gausta waterfall I suddenly find myself on the barren mountain. The Stekenjokk plateau is a tundra-looking moon landscape as far as the eye can see. In front of me I have a small road cutting through the enormous landscape, just for me and a few RV’s. Being in a mountain environment is nothing new for me, but seeing it like this and this barren is a new experience. I can count on one hand the times I felt floored over something and this is one of them. I realize I need to stop saying that Sweden can’t get more beautiful as with every new turn and hill, it just gets more beautiful.

Whoever said that the Wilderness Road is like mountain hiking by car, really nailed it. Here you won’t find any villages, gas stations, or generic fast-food chains with golden letters, not food of any kind to be true. It is only you, the mountain, and the road.

Shortly before Trappstegsforsen, I realize I haven't eaten more than a Snickers since my breakfast before 06. am this morning and now it's close to 4 pm. But I have had so much fun and such an unforgettable experience that hunger and lack of energy haven’t crossed my mind. A hamburger with the white water (Trappstegsforsen) as the view is the late lunch and early dinner of the day. I spend the night in the quirky and colorful Vilhelmina Kyrkstad.

Day 19 and the most beautiful road in Sweden. The road from Torneträsk to Riksgränsen offers a view seldom seen in Sweden. A view I have seen many times before, but this time altering between rainbows and dramatic clouds. I’m in photographer heaven. I have always thought that this is the most beautiful road in Sweden, an opinion now growing even stronger. I stop at a resting area on the side of the road, the sun shines beautifully over Torneträsk and beyond, mountains and nature’s own art pieces. If the Wilderness Road was amazing in all its glory and greatness, this road is the road equivalent of Da Vinci’s, Mona Lisa.

I want to stop at every turn and opening in the landscape to take pictures and breathe in the full scent and taste of the Lappland province. I don’t want to ride at 90 km/h as the signs say, I want to drive in 50, and 30 and never let this end. I pass the ski resort of Riksgränsen and drive the last kilometer to the border to Norway and photograph the area until the sun sets. The pale light that lingers flows beautifully over the northern landscape. It starts to get cold, so cold that when I stop for a nature call, I need to warm my hands on the engine to avoid freezing disasters. I take one last picture of the sunset and the mountains as I see it, through the side mirror. 

I arrive freezing at my hotel in the mining town of Kiruna and the celebratory cold beer, that has been on my mind to honor this day, is calling my name to end it on top. But the day can of course not be too good to be true, I miss the last call in the bar by five minutes. 

In my hotel room in Kilpisjärvi with a view over Lake Kierakasvuopio, I throw my base layer into the sink alongside an unreasonable amount of soap for a provisional, but very necessary laundry. The soap foam is miscolored by 21 days of motorcycle riding and dirt. Running around and jumping off the bike to take pictures, alongside constantly forgetting to eat lunch, I have sweated so much that I lost 4 kilos these weeks. I jump into the shower and let the warm water rinse all over me. I reflect that not a single day has actually felt like struggling, as I every evening longed for the next morning so I could jump back onto the motorcycle again. I glance at the sink and realize I must have smelled like that gym bag you forgot in your school bag over the summer.

When I once again smell like lavender and puppies, I go down to the hotel lobby to write the last paragraphs in my journal. It is a beautiful leather-covered book with natural white lined paper. It, just like me, starts to see signs from three weeks in a backpack. I sit silently in the armchair and let the thoughts run free in my head. Memories for life and experiences that shape your very personality pass by in my mind. It feels empty and melancholic even though I am happy. 

What do I do now? The feeling that creeps on me is familiar, I have had it since I was born, the desire, or need perhaps, to throw myself head first into the unknown. Into new adventures and experiences.

I order a glass of Champagne, close the journal, and put it on the table in front of me. The last paragraph is written. I look at the text I received from my dad, “I am deeply impressed by your performance, Johan. Drink your Champagne and enjoy the day because you deserve it.". In my pocket, I feel something poking my leg, it’s the key to my motorcycle. I lay it on top of the journal along with my glass of Champagne. On the keychain is a broderie piece of fabric with the text: “The key to happiness”.

Information

• DON’T miss the road between Nössemark and Ed, the Wilderness Road, and the road from Torneträsk to Riksgränsen.
• Öland is a nice one-day tour with lots of interesting nature and locations. Beware of vacation traffic during summer. Gotland is also worth a visit but requires more planning with a ferry.
• Visit Fågelsjö Gammelgård for some amazing genuine food and interesting cultural stories.
• The High Coast (Höga kusten) and the Swedish take on the Golden Gate Bridge is a bucket-list thing to do. Stop at the restaurant and hotel on the right-hand side if you come from the south.
• Even if Sweden is small compared to many other countries, the northern parts are vast and sometimes empty. 
• In August it can be cold in the north, below 10 degrees Celsius is common. 
• Avoid passing through Sweden on the E4 highway going from Helsingborg all the way to Torneå
• Be aware of Reindeer in the north, they are MANY! 
• I stayed with friends and family a lot and cheap bnb’s the rest. In total my whole tip cost 15 000 SEK including all. But I also forgot lunch.

Words & Photography: Johan Stahlberg