Today’s rainy weather doesn’t encourage sightseeing. In the afternoon, I check out the fire museum in Njarðvík. Sadly, the museum is closed, and as I ride around looking for interesting spots, I accidentally stumble upon a custom bike shop, Bro’s Custom.

The owner lends me quite a bit of his time and explains the projects they’re working on at the moment. They’re mostly bikes based on older BMW models, with 4-cylinder boxer engines.

One of them is ready for pickup, so the owner starts it up, so I can hear how it sounds with an exhaust. He details the changes made to the bike: the lights, indicators hidden in the tips of the handlebars, the stitching on the seats, and special painting techniques. It’s obvious everything here is done with a passion for motorcycles. You can check out the past and current Bro’s Custom projects on their Instagram account.

Time to see what else the Reykjanes Peninsula has in store.

A small stone church located some 20 kilometres from the town of Njarðvík.

A long, black sandy beach located in the south-western part of Reykjanes.

A 15-metre-long bridge between the North American and the European tectonic plates. The gap between the plates keeps getting wider at a rate of about 2.5 cm per year. The view doesn’t blow your mind per se, but I still think it warrants a visit.

A geothermal area with mud pools, hot springs, and steam pouring out. The tourist route is pretty short, with two viewpoints. It’s a spot just right for a 20-minute walk.

Ocean cliffs located near the Reykjanes lighthouse. A really cool, atmospheric place.

It’s past midnight, so I head back to the Vogar Campsite.

I leave the campsite around 1 pm. I get some groceries, fuel, and then I ride towards the town of Grindavík, passing the Blue Lagoon on the way.

Ten kilometres east of Grindavík there’s a turn onto the gravel route Vigdísarvallavegur that goes past Djúpavatn lake. The stretch of the road is about 25 kilometres long, and it’s not too technically demanding.

I enter Route 42, go north, and 5 kilometres later I turn east onto Route 417, which gives me another 25 kilometres of gravel. These two sections are a real jewel for amateurs of ADV riding!

I reach the Ring Road and turn east again. I pass the towns of Selfoss and Hvolsvöllur, and I reach the Langbrók campsite (which honours the Campingcard).

It’s still pretty bright out, so I go to see the Seljalandsfoss waterfall, about 30 kilometres away from the campsite.

I get there around 11:30 pm, and it’s still fairly bright, so I can take some photos. The waterfall is 60 metres tall, and you can go around it, taking a path that goes behind the wall of water. It’s one of the nicer waterfalls I’ve seen here in Iceland.

The Gljúfrabúi waterfall is a mere 750 metres north of Seljalandsfoss. To get there, I walk in a stream through a narrow gap between rocks. I reach a cave where water falls down a 40-metre wall. The place is insanely picturesque, but it’s too late for a good photo now, so I decide I need to come back here the next day.

The campsite hosts mostly camping trailers. It’s been a long time since I saw motorcyclists sleeping in tents.

I go back to see the waterfall, but getting there at 1 pm is not a good idea. In front of the entrance to the cave where the waterfall is, there’s a long line of tourists, and I have to wait over a quarter of an hour to get in. Today’s also not a good time for a photo, because people keep wandering into my shot. So instead I ride to see the Skógafoss waterfall, 30 kilometres east.

This place is also crowded, so I put off taking photos for another day.

I fill up on fuel, do some shopping, have a coffee, and go to see the church on the hill outside the town.

The black sand beach located near Vík. Another spot that’s too crowded. I slowly start to miss the desolate interior of the island.

The Mýrdalsjökull glacier is visible in the background.

Dyrhólaey is a small peninsula a few kilometres west of Vík. At one time, it was Iceland’s southernmost point. The hill is home to a lighthouse and a couple of viewpoints.

It’s my third time here. This time at 10:30 pm, to avoid people. And that turns out to be the ticket, because not only am I alone here, I also get the setting sun’s rays driving right into the cave, between the rocks.

I go back to the Langbrók campsite around midnight.

Þorvaldseyri

A historic farm which houses the museum of the 2010 eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano. From afar, it doesn’t look like much, but many tourists stop here to take photos.

A couple more tourist attractions located right by the main road.

I head to Vík for some shopping, and I fill my cases with food and water for the next few days.

Near Vík, there’s the stop where ATV tours start from. A tour guide from Poland works there, and after we chat for a while, he takes me for a quick trip around the area to see if I can ride my bike through a nearby river. The river is deep, its bed is boggy, and even the ATV has trouble crossing. When it’s my turn, I get into the river, ride to about the middle of it, lose all speed and stop dead. I try to move, but even though my back wheel is turning, the bike is standing in place. Maybe it would’ve been easier without the groceries. I give it more gas, and I know I’ll either get stuck for good, or get moving. Luckily, I manage to get across, so there’s no need for the ATV to pull the bike out of the river.

I reach the Skógar campsite and pitch my tent right by the Skógafoss waterfall. The night costs 1,500 ISK, with 300 more for the shower. Sadly, the Campingcard is not honoured here.

On the map, near the spot where I was crossing the river with the ATV, there’s a gravel road leading into the mountains. I reach the wooden hut at the end of it, take some photos, then turn back.

It’s time to see the US Navy plane wreck that crashed here in 1973. It’s half past midnight, but there’s still enough light to take good photos with a tripod. Apart from me, there are a few other people, but around 1 am, the place becomes empty.

I get back to the Skógar campsite at 2 am. I need to get up before 6 if I want to take photos without a throng of tourists by the Skógafoss waterfall.

Words & Photography: Damian Watracz