This southern region of Belgium is, without a doubt, one of the most scenic motorcycle areas in the country.

However, if you venture into popular spots like Durbuy or La Roche on a sunny summer weekend, you’ll soon find yourself caught up in a Walloon fair. The main winding roads are often crowded with motorcycles, cars, cyclists, and motorhomes...

In short, it can get incredibly busy! Add to this the fact that the French-speaking police have heavily invested in speed cameras, and it becomes clear that it’s better to seek out alternative, quieter roads in this region for a truly carefree ride.

The route I’ve programmed into my GPS avoids these well-trodden paths.
You shouldn’t come to the Ardennes expecting perfectly smooth roads, and this route certainly has its fair share of potholes and battered asphalt. With the exception of two short stretches of just a few hundred metres, the route is entirely paved.

I set off from a place still buzzing with activity. After a coffee to warm up from the chilly outward journey, I start my KTM at the foot of the Namur citadel.

From here, I follow the Maas, which is swollen from the heavy rainfall of the past few days. I continue along the river on the N92 for a few kilometres before crossing the Maas at Lustin and tackling a steep climb.

Just past Lustin, I tighten my grip as the route leads me through fields on an unpaved track that later turns into an overgrown cobbled lane.

After the recent rain, it feels more like an ice rink than a motorcycle route. I take it cautiously, occasionally putting my foot down as I slide towards Ivoy.

After a brief respite on a more familiar road past Crupet (home to its charming, idyllic castle), I head further into a hidden gem of a road.

Rue Gayolle is a tiny tarmacked lane that winds and climbs through the forest, offering a fantastic view when I reach the top. 

My helmet fills with the heady scent of autumn, and my senses come alive with the interplay of light, fresh aromas, and the vastness of the landscape that makes me feel as though I have the whole place to myself.

Alternating between fields and woodlands, I continue towards Dinant.

I pass the city of Adolphe Sax, just to my right. The temptation to stop for a coffee in one of the many cafés is strong, but I still have a long way to go.

So, I resist the lure of caffeine and instead surrender to the addictive sensation of that LC8 twin engine powering me up the mountain with a satisfying growl.

Narrow, rugged roads take me through Lisonge, Foy Notre-Dame, and on to Houyet. Route de Hour is another delightful little road that I enjoy immensely.

It’s a real pleasure to have these roads all to myself and to immerse in the ride and the surroundings, free from distractions.

Between Focant and Han-sur-Lesse, I cross the E411 and then return to the completely deserted roads leading me towards St Hubert.

St Hubert is renowned as the hunting capital. Rather than chasing wild boar or hares, I’m hunting for more challenging paths. And I find exactly that in these remote regions.

The beautiful autumn sun begins to dip, and the temperature drops noticeably.
I still have a bit further to go to reach my overnight stop, so I pick up the pace from Vaux-sur-Sûre.
No more photo stops for a while, and I cross the border into Luxembourg as the last light of day fades.

The rough, pockmarked roads so characteristic of the Belgian Ardennes (especially on the smaller roads) soon give way to sleek, well-maintained tarmac.

I arrive at my hotel at dusk, with cold hands. The bike can be tucked away in the garage, and I can finally look forward to that hot shower and dinner — after not having eaten all day, except for an early breakfast.

The next morning, I open the curtains and peer out, still half-asleep. A thick fog hangs over the village.
The thermometer reads 4°C… it’s going to be a chilly ride.

I treat myself to an extra croissant for breakfast and add another layer under my motorcycle jacket before setting off.

With misty drops on my nose, I leave the valley to continue my journey. Yesterday’s sunshine has given way to light grey clouds, and fog banks appear every time I ride alongside water.

And there’s certainly no shortage of water here! The rivers and canals are full to the brim, and I frequently pass the remnants of smaller mudslides that have recently washed over the road.

My KTM is beginning to resemble an enduro after a race, rather than a road bike. But that’s part of the charm of this route. It’s tailor-made for the adventure bike in your garage.

You don’t buy an adventure bike to stick to the main roads and get from A to B without a scratch.

The ride alternates between fog banks and grey skies, from major roads to ultra-narrow tarmac strips... wonderfully varied. And just small enough not to be too bothered by the cold.

Autumn is my favourite time of year for a ride like this. The crowds have disappeared, the roads are all yours, and the light is beautiful.

The downside? A stop at a cosy café terrace is out of the question.
You won’t encounter much on this route anyway, and most places are closed at this time of year.
But that doesn’t detract from the overwhelming feeling of complete freedom and the satisfaction of knowing you have it all to yourself!
 

The route ends a little abruptly at the three-country point (Luxembourg, Germany, Belgium). Don’t expect a grand monument, just a small, modest car park with a few flags planted in the ground.
Not even a café to warm up...

But you will undoubtedly find one a little further on, in Burg Reuland.

DOWNLOAD THE GPX FILE HERE!

Words & Photography: Peter De Jongh